The three Brévant selections

Saskatoon

On the banks of the South Saskatchewan, three rooms making the case for prairie cooking.

Hearth

Remai Modern

Hearth is glassed into the Remai Modern on the riverbank, and cooks the prairie with real conviction — unpretentious, ingredient-forward food built from Saskatchewan's farms and foragers. Beth Rogers and Thayne Robstad have made the restaurant a champion of regional producers, turning local grain, game and vegetables into sophisticated dishes: a pike escabeche, braised beef chuck with spätzle, a daily pie, a haskap-berry sorbet. There's an à la carte menu and a five-course tasting for those who want the kitchen to lead. The setting is handsome and the cooking is quietly confident, and together they argue that a serious regional restaurant belongs exactly here, on the banks of the river.

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Primal

20th Street West

Primal makes time-honoured Italian food from decidedly Saskatchewan foundations: handmade pasta rolled from local heritage grains, whole-animal butchery, a short menu that changes often. Christie Peters and Kyle Michael run a small, warm room on 20th Street West where the pasta is the heart of things — tagliatelle with a pork-and-beef-heart ragù, a puttanesca with bottarga — alongside bison, bone marrow and a smart, fairly priced wine list. There's a weekly pasta-and-wine night that fills the place with regulars. It is Italian cooking with a distinctly local accent, made by people who clearly care about where every ingredient comes from, and it has become one of the city's most reliable pleasures.

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Odla

Broadway

Odla takes its guiding line — your food shouldn't travel farther than you do — literally. Chef Scott Dicks builds the menu around Farm One Forty, a holistically managed farm just north of the city that raises the pork, beef and lamb and supplies much of the produce and honey. On Broadway, the cooking turns that closeness into genuinely creative plates: gnocchi with pea-shoot pesto and whipped feta, a bao bun with pickled-beet slaw, a family-style four-course tasting of the chef's favourites. The connection between farm and kitchen is the whole premise, and it shows in food that tastes of a specific place and season rather than of anywhere. It is farm-to-table with the emphasis genuinely on the farm.

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