The three Brévant selections

St. John's

At the country's easternmost edge, three rooms cooking the rock and the sea around it.

Portage

Water Street

Portage sits on Water Street downtown and cooks what its chefs call globally influenced Newfoundland-Canadiana — dishes made to share, without affectation. Ross Larkin and Celeste Mah, both alumni of the celebrated Raymonds, send out plates like scallop toast with kimchi jam, pork dumplings with chili crisp, cured char with crispy garlic: local ingredients pushed in unexpected directions and priced to encourage ordering widely. The room is casual and convivial, the sort of place that fills up and stays loud. It has become the reservation to make in St. John's, and it earns that with cooking that is inventive and generous rather than precious about its own seriousness.

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Terre

Water Street

Terre occupies the Alt Hotel on Water Street, but reads as anything but a hotel restaurant — a contemporary Canadian dining room with Atlantic views and a chef who arrived by an unusual route. Matthew Swift spent nearly two decades in serious Canadian kitchens, including a stint leading Montreal's Joe Beef, before a first trip to Newfoundland changed his plans and his address. His cooking draws on the province's seafood and producers, refined but rooted, whether in a coursed dinner or a weekend brunch. It brings a metropolitan level of technique to St. John's without losing sight of where it is, and it has quickly become one of the city's essential tables.

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Rabble

Water Street

Rabble opened in 2024 and put one of the province's best-known chefs back at the pass: Todd Perrin, formerly of Mallard Cottage, cooking elevated Newfoundland comfort food in a small, lively room on Water Street. The menu changes with what's available and rewards a table happy to graze — a well-judged pork belly, a knockout forage salad, kimchi-fried Brussels sprouts, a cream-sauced cod special — imaginative without ever turning fussy. There's a short, well-chosen wine list and the kind of warm, slightly rowdy service that suits the name. It is a chef with nothing left to prove cooking exactly the food he wants to, in the city he knows best.

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