The three Brévant selections

Toronto

In a city with more good restaurants than any list could hold, three worth crossing town for.

Edulis

Niagara Street

Michael Caballo and Tobey Nemeth cook at Edulis the way a generous host cooks at home — if that host happened to be obsessed with wild mushrooms and the day's best fish. The husband-and-wife team run a small room on Niagara Street where the set menu is written around whatever arrived that morning: morels in smoked butter, snow crab, a dedicated truffle menu when the season allows. The cooking draws on Spain and France without announcing it, rustic and precise at once. Phones are discouraged, the table is yours for the night, and the whole enterprise is built to slow you down. It rewards anyone who treats dinner as the plan rather than the prelude.

Visit website

Alo

Spadina Avenue

Alo has anchored the top of Toronto's dining for a decade, and Patrick Kriss marked its tenth year by gutting the room and starting the next chapter. Up a heritage building on Spadina, it now serves a single dégustation of six or ten courses across a dining room and bar that finally read as one space. The cooking, once mostly French and Japanese, has grown more restless and multicultural without losing its discipline — every plate passes Kriss's eye before it reaches the table. It remains a special-occasion restaurant in the fullest sense: composed, generous, and confident enough to keep changing while much of the city tries to catch up.

Visit website

aKin

Colborne Street

aKin opened in late 2024 with an unhidden ambition, and built a room designed to meet it. The space is spare and quietly opulent, the light angled toward a bright counter where Eric Chong and his brigade assemble a ten-course tasting of reimagined Asian classics. A meal moves from vegetable-focused snacks through signatures like a one-bite sphere of deeply concentrated broth, each course plated on handmade dishware chosen to suit it. With co-owner Alvin Leung's fingerprints on the concept, it is the most deliberate fine-dining arrival Toronto has seen in years — and it delivers on the intent rather than merely stating it.

Visit website